HOTEL POSADA DE ROGER - Comes with some good foreigner hangout spots, such as a 2nd-floor pool and plant-filled courtyards. Maze-like outside hallways surround clean rooms with TV, dark wood furniture and - if you're lucky - a balcony.

This four-story guest house was one of the first backpacker haunts in town, and some folks still reminisce about the lascivious free spirits that used this place as their hive in the 1970s. The large and shady courtyard with its dripping fountain is a perfect place to escape the heat and compare tales with other travelers. On the 2nd floor, the motif of repose is extended with a small pool and plenty of chaise lounges. Alas, the rooms are a bit musty and are ill-equipped for basic security, but they're pleasant enough, with phones, ancient air conditioners, well-worn furniture, diminutive televisions and creaky ceiling fans. The bathrooms sport large tiled showers big enough for three free spirits. The rooms overlooking the street are desirable for brightness and cross-ventilation. REVIEW IN LONELY PLANET http://bit.ly/d6BEnt